tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3111753163359491070.post303877890533739045..comments2024-02-09T05:18:38.009-08:00Comments on Mulesaw: New tool chest for the sea 3, dados, rabbets and dovetails.Jonas Jensenhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07787393233185454227noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3111753163359491070.post-67055681296244441482015-01-26T06:41:20.878-08:002015-01-26T06:41:20.878-08:00Hi Bill
My problem is probably traceable to the c...Hi Bill<br /><br />My problem is probably traceable to the crappy work position in the workshop. But there isn't much I can do about it except use the plane and get better at correcting the stance.<br />The plane is almost at chest height, so it isn't a natural position.<br /><br />I think the iron on this one is sharp enough, but it too could be a bit better. Not that I think it would matter much. But it never hurts.<br /><br />I think that a 4000 slip stone will be great for getting a fine edge. <br />I saw a video of Larry Williams. He used some leather that was glued to a dowel for stropping his profiled tools. I think the video is called: sharpening profiled hand tools with Larry Williams. It is straight talk. No nonsense and fancy jigs etc. He uses a grinder and some oil stones. <br /><br />I haven't got any slip stones, so I'll have to improvise with some fine emery paper or sand paper when I am going to bring a moulding plane.<br /><br />We have a Dremel on board. That might be good for those tiny curves, depending on how coarse a stone we have for it.<br /><br />I think a difference between a rabbet / fillister and a moulding plane is that the rabbet will almost always be concealed, so it doesn't have to be super smooth. whereas the moulding is supposed to be crisp and ready to finish. <br /><br />Thanks<br />JonasJonas Jensenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07787393233185454227noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3111753163359491070.post-20741385203441174862015-01-26T05:44:42.779-08:002015-01-26T05:44:42.779-08:00I'm still not used to planing "in the opp...I'm still not used to planing "in the opposite direction" when I use the fillister, as in I usually clamp the board to the side of the workbench rather than the front. This makes it a little more awkward, in particular because my bench is against a wall so I can't just walk around it. But I've been able to make fairly accurate rabbets with it. It doesn't hurt that the iron is sharp, but I think I can get it even sharper with just a little more work.<br /><br /> The beading plane is the same situation, the sharper I get the iron the more accurate it has become. If I am off from work tomorrow because of the weather, I will put some more time in with it, but otherwise I will wait until the weekend. I plan on using up to 600 grit sandpaper, and then the 4000 grit slip stone, which I believe will be enough to make it "sing".<br />Thanks. Billconfusedwoodworker@gmail.comhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07388390480569098626noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3111753163359491070.post-87056578354901143222015-01-25T12:00:44.424-08:002015-01-25T12:00:44.424-08:00Hi Bill.
I am not completely sold on the plane ye...Hi Bill.<br /><br />I am not completely sold on the plane yet. Maybe it is because I have deliberately avoided joinery that involved rabbets. I can see that it is very useful though.<br />On my earlier projects I would have made a tongues and grooves for the bottom. And used my grooving plane for that. Now I can make the tongues a bit quicker by using the moving fillister.<br />I guess it is a bit like your beading plane, you need to use it for a while to really appreciate what the plane can do. <br />In theory I would still prefer to have a jack plane or maybe a jointer, but that could take some of the "fun" out of building stuff out here.<br /><br />I have a problem with making the rabbets accurate. I tend to tilt the plane, so the floor of the rabbet has got a small slope. I am pretty sure this can be corrected by practice. The position for planing isn't optimal as I can't get behind the plane. So I am sort of standing next to it, or very very close behind it. (I am good at making up excuses)..<br />JonasJonas Jensenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07787393233185454227noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3111753163359491070.post-65246064281629943952015-01-25T10:59:35.387-08:002015-01-25T10:59:35.387-08:00Are you sold on the moving fillister as a necessit...Are you sold on the moving fillister as a necessity? I personally believe that it is the most important joinery plane, and one of the first planes that should be purchased. With it, you can make accurate dados and rabbets, the joinery used in most cabinet construction.<br />Billconfusedwoodworker@gmail.comhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07388390480569098626noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3111753163359491070.post-63644614610185392262015-01-25T06:21:09.088-08:002015-01-25T06:21:09.088-08:00Hi Brian.
I checked CS's description in "...Hi Brian.<br /><br />I checked CS's description in "The joiner and cabinetmaker" which I have brought with me. And CS says that if it has got the nicker so it can be used both along the grain and across it + if it has got a moving fence and depth stop, then it is a moving fillister. I can see the double designation being allright, but the it should be a double moving fillister n my opinion. <br /><br />A funny thing is that Veritas calls their moving fillister for a skewed rabbet plane, but that one does both ways as well. <br /><br />All that aside, the plane actually works OK. I just have to learn not to tilt it.<br />Brgds<br />JonasJonas Jensenhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07787393233185454227noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3111753163359491070.post-52355721085042466002015-01-25T04:03:37.065-08:002015-01-25T04:03:37.065-08:00I like that you call that 78 a moving filetster. ...I like that you call that 78 a moving filetster. I think that more accurately describes the tool, as opposed to what Stanley called it - a duplex rabbet plane. I think the term duplex refers to the two options of where you can mount the blade. But with the fence and nicker, it certainly could be considered a filetster.Brian Evehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04252174035715635674noreply@blogger.com