While I was at home last period, I took my drawings down to the planning department at the town hall.
I had scrutinized the requirements laid out in the plan for that specific area, but I was still a bit uncertain about the outcome.
I talked to the same person that I had previously discussed the case with, and I showed her my drawings.
After looking at the drawings a bit she said that it was fine, but she still needed one drawing, that would show where the shed was going to be placed on the lot. If I made a drawing that would do that, I could just submit the application online and start building.
She even commented that my drawings were of a higher quality than they usually saw. That made me glad, because I had honestly considered if it was of little use to make such elaborate drawings, if a simpler sketch would do. But maybe that helped showing that I was serious about the build. Anyway, I just have to decide where to build the shed, and then make a drawing that will show it.
With this major "obstacle" seeming ly out of the way, I have given quite a lot of thought to the raising process.
The overall plan is to build in some steps.
As a start I am going to make the lower frame complete with all the required joints, including the joists.
Once those parts are ready, they will be taken to the summer house.
Next I am going to dig some holes for all the concrete posts that will be cast.
The lower frame will then be assembled in position over the holes and leveled out at the intended height.
Then I am going to mount the casting brackets on the frame and pour the concrete. That should ensure a level topside of the lower frame.
Once that part of the project is out of the way, I can proceed with making the rest of the joints while the concrete will have ample time to set,
The next major step will be to assemble the bents and try to raise them. I am going to use chain blocks and poles etc.
Once the first bent is raised, it can be used for raising the following bents.
In my imagination the upper plates and the rafters will merely be a walk in the part. I am afraid that reality might look a bit different once I get to that actual part of the build.
But sitting out here and doing the raising by doing sketches of the individual steps using pen and paper makes it look easy, and that is a lot more comfortable than imagining all the steps that could go wrong. I'll probably discover those when I get to them.
Good progress, I love it when a plan goes together.
ReplyDeleteGood luck with the construction.
Cheers
Bob
Thanks Bob.
DeleteIt is amazing how efficiently and smooth things progress while you are sitting in a comfortable chair.
But I really hope that the plan will hold.
Brgds
Jonas
I can follow most of what you've written except 'casting brackets.' Do you plan on sinking concrete piers below grade and then filling in the wall sections between these piers?
ReplyDeleteI am not sure if I have used the correct English terms for these descriptions.
DeleteCasting brackets are some heavy galvanized iron angles with a steel bar welded onto them. The steel bar end is cast into concrete.
I am going to cast concrete piers in the ground, but the top of the concrete will be level with the top of the ground.
The casting brackets will protrude approximately 4" above the ground.
This is done to prevent rot to the frame. So technically the frame hovers 4" above the ground.
I could also have opted for making a continuous foundation, but I think the pillar foundations will be more than strong enough.
There will be 10 pillars for the main frame, and then there will be 3 pillars inside for supporting the middle part of each joist.
By leveling out the op of the frame before mounting the casting brackets, and before pouring the concrete, I can ensure that the top will really be level.
I need to do it that way because the timber is straight from the sawmill, so there are bound to be a bit of difference in the height.
A more normal way is to attach the brackets to a straight piece of wood, and make sure that they are all level, then pour the concrete. That will work only if your frame to be mounted is of equal thickness all the way around. Which would likely be the case if you used wood that was planed to the same thickness.
But since lumber can vary in thickness a bit, the other way is easier for me.
I hope it makes sense?
If not I'll try to take some pictures and write about it when I finally start the build.
Brgds
Jonas