Sunday, March 10, 2013

Sea chest build part 6

I have decided, that the bottom of the chest should be shiplapped. The material for the bottom was much to my surprise very easy to plane.
To make a shiplapping work, it is easiest, if the boarda are all the same thickness. This is a bit of a problem out here, as I haven't got a marking gauge. So instead I just eyeball the thickness and compare it to the other boards. I thought that they were all pretty close to each other.

I have reasoned, that it will work with a little difference in the thickness, since the boards will be nailed to the bottom.Sso the inside will theoretically look nice and even. I then plan on setting the heads of the nails, and plane the outside so it will also be flat.

I made the shiplap using a dangerous setup with the handheld electric plane. After a couple of boards, it all went pretty well. I won't advocate on using the tool this way, so there I didn't take a picture of it.
The boards are all about 2" too long, so I can trim them to length after they are nailed in place.
Here is a picture of the finished shiplapped boards loosely laid out on the workbench.


The interior build:
A sea chest need a till for a pencil and the discharge book etc. I also decided that it needs at leas at two small drawers for other small stuff, such as sail makers needles, a picture of the family etc.

The dado for the bottom of the till goes all the way across the end of the chest. The setup is a piece of wood used to guide the saw (the only one I have), if you feel like copying the build, I suggest using a crosscut backsaw of some kind.

The vertical dado is for what will become the side of the two drawers. like a small cabinet side. This is not placed in the exact middle of the board, since I wanted to be able to secure the cleats for the beckets in the center.

There is one more dado, for the horizontal division  between the drawers. That one is placed halfway between the lower part of the till and the bottom. So rather unusual, I have not made graduated drawers in the height, but I think it will still look OK, since they will have a different width.

After sawing out the dados, I remove the wood using a chisel. It is also possible (actually advisable) to use a router plane if you happen to have one at hand.


  1. Cutting dadoes this way is fantastic. I used to think you needed a special plane for dadoes, or all kinds of special tools. What you did should get most people through a build like this. Learning to clear it with a chisel is good, too. After all, it doesn't have to be perfect, as the bottom of the dado will not be visible.

    By the way, I love that Google puts your page in Danish. Trying to navigate my way around it is like an Easter egg hunt. You never know what is going to happen!

  2. I liked the Easter egg hunt analogy. It made me laugh out really loud down here in the engine control room.

    I'll see if I can change my page setup to English.

  3. The dovetails look great especially since they were cut with a hacksaw. The dado turned out nicely too. A router plane would have been a great help. In my opinion it's one of the more underrated woodworking tools.

  4. Hi Bill.
    I agree that a router plane is an underrated tool. Actually when Brian Eve made a poll, about which toola beginner should consider buying after the basic set, the router plane came out on top.

    Actually a hacksaw works pretty good in hardwood. It also has some mass, so it works its way down on its own like it should.
    My dovetail saw at home has a very fine set of teeth as well, so there wasn't much of a difference to me in that respect.