Thus tonight I was able to relax and recharge my personal batteries by going to the workshop and continuing with the lid.
The lid of the chest is built up with a floating panel inside a frame with mitered bridle joints.
I found a wide board for the panel. It came from a set of folding sides for a pallet. It is about 7.5" wide, and it was actually pretty flat and OK in terms of knots. Not exactly furniture grade, but better than the stuff tha I used for the chest itself.
The panel was thinned down to a thickness of 15 mm, and smoothed. Then I planed grooves all around to a depth of approximately 5 mm.
The frame was ripped out of some of the 6x1.5" lumber that I have, so I could save the rest of the pallet side for next time I need a wide board.
The individual pieces were dressed and I decided for their position. I am not good at making boards of an equal thickness, but I decided that I could just make the grooves with the upper side as a reference side, and then once the frame is assembled, I can plane of the bottom, so any inaccuracies will be removed.
If you can make boards that are uniform in thickness, layout is a lot easier, since you can use the same setting for each corner. But you can also work your way around it like I do, and flatten things later. I don't advocate this approach, you will be much better off, learning to process stock so that it will be uniform.
I generally try to start making joinery from the back of the piece I am working on. This was a trick I was taught by Chris Schwarz at an ATC class in Metten. If you do it that way, you will start making the least visible joint, so any inaccuracies will be on the back of the piece.
My two first mitered bridle joints didn't look particularly good. But they will be on the back side of the lid, so they won't be that prominent.
I discovered that I am not very good at sawing tenons and mortises with my Japanese dozuki. (I am not sure if that is the correct name when the "mortise" is open in one end?)
Therefore I decided to play the safe card for the front joints and found a hacksaw with a new blade in it. The kerf is somewhat wider, but I find it easier to control such a saw. The result is that the front joints look OK.
I really can't blame the Japanese saw since my model isn't intended for making tenons. It is cross filed, and there is a steel back on it. Using a tool beyond its design is never the best way to go.
I made a preliminary dry assembly of the lid, but I need to do a little adjusting before the final assembly. Tomorrow I will hopefully glue it together.
the dry assembled lid on top of the chest.
The panel and frame groove connection.
I've been enjoying this series. Nice work on the chest. I took the ATC class this summer in Port Townsend and really enjoyed it.
ReplyDeletebadger
Thanks foir the comment.
ReplyDeleteThe ATC class was probably the best class / course I have taken in my adult life. It is nice to get together with a bunch of other people who are interested in the same subject. We had a lot of beers as well during the class by the way. That was like an extra bonus: Beer and good company, a classic constellation.
Brgds
Jonas
I am amazed at how well this project is coming considering what tools you have, and where you are making it.
ReplyDeleteThank you Ralph.
DeleteThe work area is maybe one third of the area I had on the last ship, and that really makes a difference. The wood is not a very good quality, so the surface could have looked better, but the main purpose of these shipboard projects are to pass time with woodworking instead of watching TV. And besides after a coat of paint it will look OK.
Brgds
Jonas
The chest is looking great, Gandalf! You've mentioned that you didn't care for the Japanese saw you were using. I've made several attempts at using a Japanese saw and I didn't care for them all that much either. In my mind, they aren't as accurate as a western saw and require a greater learning curve. They also don't work well on a western workbench I've found. That isn't to say that there aren't woodworkers in Japan, or anywhere else for that matter who love the Japanese style saws. I just don't see how some consider them so much better than the western versions. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteYou are much too kind :-)
DeleteI like my Japanese saw for trimming of the ends of dowels. It is also OK for making dovetails, but when I have to make a longer cut it often starts to wander about.
Actually this saw is very small, so maybe that is why it isn't very good at making tenons.
On the other hand, the small size makes it possible for me to keep it in my tool chest for the sea. So there is probably something to the old saying that you can't have it all.
Brgds
Jonas
If it wasn't for your day job, you'd probably be farther along by now!
ReplyDeleteIt looks great!
I'd still add a Ryobi to your kit. It might give you a bit more flexibility being able to rip and crosscut.
You are absolutely right about my day job..
ReplyDeleteTonight I was gluing up the lid, and all of a sudden they called from the bridge , if I could start up a cyclone filter.
I decided that they would have to wait 40 seconds and I rushed the assembly. raced to start the filter, hurried up to the control room to call them back and say it was ready. Then hurry back to the workshop and attach some clamps.
Luckily it all ended OK.
Maybe you are right about a Ryobi. But i would have to get one that would fit in the "tools chest for the sea".
Another problem is that I generally suck at sawing tenons. So I suppose that I should practice it some more.
Thanks for the nice comment on the looks.
Brgds
Jonas