Friday, September 23, 2016

North Sea school box build 2, dovetails.

We have been fairly busy, so I haven't made a lot of progress on the school box, but every little bit helps, however slow it may seem.

I flattened the glued up panels and ripped them to the correct height. Then I crosscut them to the correct length and planed them all at once to make sure they all got the same height.
Once that was done I use my shooting board to square up the ends.

I like to use the "rabbet on the tailboard trick" when I dovetail, because it helps to get a nice appearance on the inside of the joint.
After making the shallow rabbet, I used the remaining thickness as a guide for the marking gauge and marked out the length of the pins on the pin boards.

The pins were laid out using a divider, and I marked the angle using a small cardboard template. the slope is 1:6.

I clamped the pin board to my 5x5 work holding stick, and started sawing.
When I was done with the sawing and getting ready to chop out the waste between the pins, I noticed that the end boards had become rather dirty. Apparently someone has used the 5x5 for something that involved a mix of soot and grease.
The dirty spots are on the inside of the boards, so I hope that I will be able to remove them by sanding.
I might have to try to dress the 5x5 using my plane, to remove the dirty parts. That will be easier and better than messing up the rest of the build.

One of the pins were placed exactly on a knot. That meant that half the pin fell out as soon as I had sawed the sides of it. The good thing is that this is one of the lower pins, so I'll just make sure to make the skirt high enough to cover the inevitable hole resulting from half the pin missing.

Flattening an end board.

Planing all parts to the same height.

My shooting board set up.

Sawing out the pins. Notice the dirt on the 5x5.

10 comments:

  1. It looks good, so far. Looks like I have a bit of catching up to do.

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    1. Oh yes, I am really making headway at the moment.. :-)

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  2. It always makes me smile when I see that you have been cutting dovetails with a hacksaw. Your "can do" attitude is always an inspiration.

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    1. Hi Greg
      Thanks for the nice comment.
      Since you can steer a hacksaw just a bit, it is actually a pretty fine saw to use for mortise and tenon joints.
      At least for beginners I think that is a nice things. There will be a bit more cleaning up, but the joint will be tight. Some of my earliest M/T joints were sloppy because the tenon was too narrow, due to the saw wandering off.
      Brgds
      Jonas

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  3. Looking good. How do you like the feel of holding this plane compared to the short knob and tall rear tote on a Bailey-style? I've yet to try one, but they look like a good idea.
    Jeff

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    1. Hi Jeff.
      Interesting question.
      Truth be told, I have never really thought about that until now.
      I think the biggest difference is not related to how the plane feels to hold in terms of knobs and totes, but more that it is lighter in weight. And wooden planes just glides very nicely.
      A less tight grip is required on this type of wooden plane, compared to a Bailey type for the rear, as you are gripping the whole width of the plane.
      If you have a workbench in a height that is meant for woodworking, I don't see much difference, but out here where the workbench is actually way too tall compared to normal wooden workbenches, the wooden plane wins.
      I have rehabbed just a couple of Bailey style planes out here, and tested them out after doing that. The grip of the rear tote never felt really good because of the work position.
      I think you should try one out before buying one, if you have the chance. They are common in Denmark and fairly cheap as well. 15-20$ (around 100-125 Danish crowns) will get you one.
      The blades and chipbreakers are mostly from E.A. Berg, so you don't need to worry about those.

      Brgds
      Jonas

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  4. Some clever workholding on display!

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    1. Thanks. I have to be creative out here.
      Brgds
      Jonas

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  5. Seeing your work holding methods is to me the definition of "where there's a will, there's a way". I should never complain when I find I don't have the "right" tool for a job.

    It looks like in the last picture that you are clamping a board to your work piece to remove some cupping. I had to do the same thing when using some 11 1/4" wide pine to make dovetail joints. It really helped in getting the DT joints cut and fitted properly.

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    1. Hi Matt.

      I am glad if I am able to inspire just a little bit.
      The clamping board I used in the last picture was not to remove cupping, but to prevent the clamp to mar the surface. The spruce is pretty soft, so I try to do that most of the time.
      But I agree with you, that it can help if a board is cupped.
      Thanks for commenting
      Brgds
      Jonas

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