Friday, September 30, 2016

North Sea school box build 3, secret compartment.

The original design calls for a movable partition (at least that's what it is called in the book).
I have never really understood the idea of it, and never liked it much either.

I figured that it has been a while since I have made any secret compartments, and this project can easily accommodate one.

The design is similar to a secret compartment I saw in a blanket chest article some years ago. The idea is to make a small fixed interior till wit a secret compartment below it. To gain access, one will have to lift up the vertical part of the till.

I first laid out the positions of the parts of the till and the extra space below it. I then used a batten to help guide my Japanese saw when sawing out the sides of the grooves and dadoes.
The bulk of the waste was removed using a chisel, and my small homemade router next ensured a consistent depth.
To avoid the possibility to accidentally pulling out the front of the till, I made some deeper dadoes for the lower part of it. The front itself has got two small protrusions that will fit in there.

To determine the actual length of the till parts, I made a dry assembly of the box and took the measurements directly from it.

After processing those parts, I made another dry assembly to check if all worked as it should.
The system is OK, but I need to make a small chamfer at the ends of the till bottom and the secret compartment bottom.

When that is done I guess the next step is to sand the box lightly on the inside to remove some of the grime that almost inevitably comes from working in an engine room workshop, before gluing up the case.

Finding the correct length.

The layout of the secret compartment when closed.

The secret compartment opened.

The deeper dado and the protrusion on the front of the till.

Dry assembly closed.

Dry assembly opened.


14 comments:

  1. That's a nice idea. I guess you just have to have a slightly loose fit of the moveable part of the till in its dado to allow it to move. Looking good.

    Matt

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Matt
      Thanks.
      Yes, the fit will have to be slightly loose. But not so much that it becomes wobbly. The air is much more dry in the engine room compared to at home, so all the projects I have made out here expand a bit when they get ashore. So I hope it won't start to bind.
      It doesn't matter much if the fit is a little loose, because the novelty of a secret compartment far outweighs the practical use of it.
      Brgds
      Jonas

      Delete
  2. Looks like its starting to come together. I really like the secret compartment idea. Pretty cool!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Greg
      Thanks.
      I just need to pull myself together and get it glued up, then there's a bottom an a lid to be made.
      Brgds
      Jonas

      Delete
  3. Replies
    1. I can't believe that comment comes from someone who has got 10 Millers falls planes and has made 4 beautiful Roorkees :-)
      Cheers
      Jonas

      Delete
    2. Only 10? I think he's hiding some more in a secret compartment :)

      Great job, I like the secret compartment idea!

      Delete
    3. I agree, he could easily have more planes stashed away somewhere.

      I'm glad you like the secret compartment.

      Brgds
      Jonas

      Delete
    4. I don't have ten Millers Falls planes.

      They are Ohio tools.

      Delete
    5. Sorry, that makes a HUGE difference :-)

      Delete
  4. I really like the secret compartment idea, i should have add a few of those in my plane tills to hide a few more planes he he.

    Bob, and his overflowing plane tills :-)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Bob.
      I think it will only be possible to put very small planes inside most secret compartments. But small planes also deserve a nice place to stay.

      Brgds
      Jonas

      Delete
  5. I like this arrangement and have seen, as you point out, similar hidden compartments in 6 board chests. You've raised this arrangement with the dado stop on the sliding section. My concern is that if that sliding section (or the bottom boards swell) requires fettling after glue up, then you will have made the task so much more difficult. You've chosen what appears to be flatsawn stock that is probably thicker than necessary, adding to potential wood movement. Well, inevitable wood movement.
    I think the sliding stop is a great idea and I cannot think of any alternative that does the same but allows for removal. Have you decided to make a drawer to fill the secret compartment?

    ReplyDelete
  6. Hi
    Your concerns are exactly the same as the ones I have.. I have left the siding front a little bit loose, but if it enough - only time will tell.
    I had toyed with the idea of making some sort of Quaker lock or sliding key to lock the front of the till, then in theory I could have left out the sliding stop.
    I didn't go that route though, because things were a bit too small for me to get any of those things to work properly.
    The secret compartment won't get a drawer this time. That is due to that I want to complete the build before going home.
    Brgds
    Jonas

    ReplyDelete