Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Fairy tale woodworking 2

After some busy days, I managed to get a little time in the workshop this evening. I have now made the posts for the bed along with the headboard and the footboard (if that is the name?) and the sides.

The posts each have two mortises for receiving the sides and ends.

I decided to try to make some acorn shaped tops on the posts, but I'm not quite sure how they will look once they have been sanded.

The next step is to make some grooves for attaching the bottom of the bed, and then off course to make the bottom.

After that it should be a matter of sanding the parts and assemble the bed.

I have made a carving of a small princess' crown on the head board as a decoration, that way the bed can not be mistaken for an ordinary doll bed.

Some of the mortises and tenons are a bit too loose, but I intend to ass some small nails to reinforce the joint anyway.

The preliminary assembly.


Wednesday, April 9, 2014

Fairy tale woodworking

Once upon a time a woodworker was asked by his wife to make a small bed.

The bed was supposed to be the size of a doll bed, but not of any specific size.

The plan of the wife was to present this little bed to a very young niece as a present for her to play with.

Along with the bed, the wife was planning to make several small mattresses and a small doll with a princess' crown on her head. At one side of one of the several mattresses there would be sewn a small green round object - A pea.

With the bed, the mattresses, the princess and the pea, the young niece should be able to play with the things in a way that was already described in an existing fairy tale.

Now two questions arise:
What fairy tale could that be?
Will the woodworker be able to undertake such a task while on board his ship?

The last question is probably the hardest, but lets see in a couple of days.

Friday, March 28, 2014

Barnsley glue up

After approximately a week of making mortises and tenons, I was finally ready for gluing up the lower frame of the Barnsley Hayrake table that I am making.

I accidentally turned one end upside down, but luckily the joints were OK, I guess that I managed to execute the joints rather precisely since I was able to get by with this small stunt.

Large complex flue ups tend to scare me a little. And this one even featured odd angles that couldn't be pressed with the use of a clamp. In theory I should have made a dry assembly first, but I haven't got any drawbore pins, so I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best.

I made the pegs out of some old oak that I have lying around. The wedges for the tenons were also made out of oak. I like the contrast of the darker oak compared to the reddish larch.

The next thing to do is to make a chamfer on all the straight parts of the frame and on the legs.
In addition to this, the legs need to have a groove cut in the upper end for receiving the stiffener for the tabletop.

Laying out the parts before the glue up.

The frame glued up, 

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Finally back in the workshop

After a stressful period at sea, I made it home a little more than a week ago. I had 3.5 great days at home until I unexpectedly received an SMS with a hotel booking in Norway..
It seemed no one at the company had bothered to tell me that I had been booked for a 5 day course in Dynamic Positioning system maintenance in Norway! So I had to spend more time away from my family just after getting home. The worst thing is that the course wasn't very good and should only have lasted 2 or three days at the most. So all in all, a sad waste of time.

Today we had Asgers class mates over for a late celebration of his birthday, this involved driving various vehicles ranging from a garden tractor to a motorcycle with a sidecar. All the kids liked it and had a great time. After the supper I was able to make it into the workshop to finally continue my build of the Barnsley Hayrake table.

I made a mortise for the two arms of the central lower stretcher. And a mortise and tenon for the cross piece at the end of the aforementioned stretcher. I had almost one and a half hours out there, and it almost recharged my internal batteries. Woodworking is a great stress reliever to me.

Tomorrow I hope to continue and maybe even finish one end of the lower stretcher.

I just stumbled over this old picture of my daughter Laura and our old dog.

The fruits of a nice evening in the workshop.

Thursday, February 20, 2014

Finished with the carving.

Since the name of the pony is such a short one, carving a name sign isn't such a big deal. I made the two stars yesterday and the BA. today I finished the S.

I'll probably cross cut the board a little too long out here, and then let Gustav decide on the length once I get home.
He will probably also be interested in doing the painting of the sign.

Based on experience, I have found that the best way to paint such a sign is by priming and then adding a base colour. I prefer to use a spray can to avoid filling the letters with the base colour.
Once that is dry I use a small brush for painting the letters inside in a contrasting colour. I like to use red for base and white for the letters.

If I had to do the paint job on board, I would use a tooth pick for the letters. That was how I did it last time, and it is easy to get into the small corners.

The sign will eventually look better with paint since it will make it easier to see the depth of the letters.




Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Carving a name sign

There have been precious little leisure time on the ship lately, mostly because we have been relocated to another assignment, so instead of basically serving 1 rig, we are now serving an entire field. It is kind of like a grocery delivery round. 

So instead of starting some large fancy projects (another chest), I decided to carve a name sign for Gustav's pony.

The pony that belongs to our friends was recently moved to another stable, so now there is just our own 2 ponies and the horse left.
The horse and the small pony each have their own carved sign, but We I have never taken the time to make one for the last pony. I doubt that he cares, but I would like to make a sign, because it is a cosy little job that can be done basically everywhere.

I picked a piece of wood (from a pallet..) surfaced the four sides of it, and that was the entire stock preparation.

I am sure that there are a lot of skilled carvers out there who are able to draw their own letters, and make any sign look great. I am fairly sure that any attempt from my side to design my own letters would be downright ugly.
Therefore I use the same method that I have used for the other signs I have carved:
The name for the sign is written on a computer, then printed out and taped to the stock. 
Normally I would use the font: "Clarendon bold". But I couldn't find it on this computer, and the Internet connection was so slow the other day that I was unable to download it. Instead I found another font that looked OK.
The text to be carved is enlarged to a size that will seem appropriate for the sign. In this instance I used
a font called "Mongolian Bait", font size 160.
The starts are "Windings" size 110.

Once the text had been printed out and taped to the stock, I carefully cut the outline of the letters / symbols with a hobby knife. The tip of the blade leaves a very fine line on the wood so the letters can be seen when the paper is removed.

I start by carving in the middle of the letter / symbol, then gradually increase the depth and width of the cut. I guess that my angle of the knife is 60 degrees. That leaves a nice and fairly deep carving that will look good once the sign is painted. 

The print out taped to the board.

The letters have been cut out.

Faint lines mark each letter.

The first carved star and the tool used for the job.

Friday, February 14, 2014

Anchor No 3 hand plane, the result

The plane needed more work than I had imagined, not any major problems, but it had enough flaws to ensure that it would not work properly. I suspect the reason for the plane to be in such a good shape is because it has never worked very well and therefore it has never been used much.

The lever cap problem is illustrated by the 2 pictures where it can be seen that during mid closing of the lever, the tension is a lot stronger than when the lever is closed.
During the mid closing position, the distance measured 6.5 mm, and when the lever was closed it measures 5.2 mm
I solved the problem by rounding the corner with a file. So now the mid closing distance is more like the 5.2 mm, I didn't do a second measurement, but it feels right so it is probably OK.

The frog had a little rust all the way down, where the blade is supposed to rest. I took a file and gave the frog a few swipes with it to remove the rust. Much to my surprise, the front of the frog was so poorly machined that the blade wouldn't even touch the end where it should. I filed some more, and ended up with a flat front after some time.

To make the frog fit the sole, I applied some grinding paste and tried to see if that would do the trick. It wasn't quite enough, so I had to remove a few burrs with the file. Then back to paste grinding.

I had found that the frog couldn't be moved far enough forward to make a really tight mouth, and I suspected that the washers for the frog holding screws were the cause. I found out that adding a washer behind the slotted piece of metal also enabled the frog to be able to move as I wanted it too.

The sole needed a little flattening, but nothing serious.

All that is left now is to sharpen the blade and test the plane.

Lever cap showing the mid closing lever problem.

Distance with lever closed.

The finished plane.