Friday, July 20, 2018

Mini Max hydroplane

Update on the virus warning in the comments:
I just received a mail from the administrator of the Muskoka seaflea page, and they were attacked heavily about a week ago. They have had it all cleared, so it should be safe now. 
Apparently a warning can "hang" in the system until you update your browser?
Quote: "some times the cache on a visitor's browser will hang onto the "warning" until their browsing cache is refreshed"

Thanks to a much better than normal summer (hottest in Denmark in 150 years or so), There might be a real chance of some time spent at the beach.

Gustav has long complained that we haven't got a boat. When I tried to tell him that we could probably get a rowing boat or a small sailing dingy, he looked at me the way only a frustrated teenager can do. The look that clearly tells you that in his opinion you must be living in the 20th century (which happens to be correct for my part)

Sitting out here without a definite woodworking project going on, I started surfing the web for some inspiration. I have always admired those small hydroplanes from the 60'ies. Those on the cover of Popular Mechanics etc. Nice looking cover articles from a time when the western world was pastel coloured - and smoking and drinking was recommended by your local doctor as a perfectly legal way to wind down after a long day at work.

There are a couple of places that has those old designs available as free pdf files for downloading.
I ended up at a place called Muskoka seaflea, they had just the right plan for me.

The incredible Mini Max Hydroplane.

It is made out of two sheets of 1/4" plywood, a bit of regular wood, a little bit of epoxy to seal the edges and that is about it. According to the article, you can build it in two days, or one day if you have some woodworking experience.

Back in the days this little boat could apparently be built for 20$. That figure doesn't quite get you there today, but I have made a loose budget, and I think that I can probably build it for something like 200$. The most expensive stuff being the epoxy and the paint.

We have an old 4 hp outboard engine, and that will have to make do for a start. If it is a success, I might have to look into finding a more powerful motor later on.

I have spent a bit of time figuring out the radius of the curves shown on page 2 of the instructions.
Those old plans can seem a bit vague compared to what is available nowadays, but since they are free you can't really complain. And if it was possible to build one 50 years ago based on those plans - I can't see why we can't do it today.

According to my calculations, the radius of the "fore center strut" is 85.4"
The lower radius of the "fore cross piece" is 86.2"
The upper radius of the "fore cross piece" is 102.1"
We'll have to see if I am correct once I start building the boat.

The plan is off course to get the boys involved. The individual pieces are not very heavy, and today with the possibility of using screws instead of nails, the buys can really play their part.
If all goes as planned, I will be back home Tuesday night, so Wednesday would be a logical starting point with a trip to the lumberyard for some plywood and possibly some screws.

In the free world, it is probably legitimate to let your children play in a speed boat. But guess which country that has regulations for that as well..
But being the less than enthusiastic citizen that I am, I looked at the official page from Søfartsstyrelsen (the Danish equivalent of US Coast Guard) to see if the rules were possible to work around.
The rules state that you have to be 16 and have a speed boat licence if the power of the boat is more than "the square of the length +3".
If the boat is of a planing type and it is shorter than 4 m (~13'), you need to be 16 and have a licence if the engine has more than 19 hp.

So by making a really short hydroplane I elegantly manage to circumvent the regulations, and can let my kids use the boat to their hearts desire. As long as I stay below 19 hp. But given that the design suggests a maximum of 15 hp that shouldn't be a problem.

Monday, July 16, 2018

I really ought to start working on something.

A good thing about growing up is that once in a while you can recognize a pattern if it has happened before. If you are sufficiently smart - you might even know how to deal with it based on last time you experienced the same thing.

If I don't do any sort of woodworking for a month or so out here, I inevitably end up fantasizing about projects whenever I have to stay put in the control room due to the ship being within the 500 m zone of an offshore installation.

Normally I tend to concentrate my thoughts on one type of project: Boats, Timber framing, workbenches etc.
But other times like this period, I have considered almost all of those regular projects. Plus a few other  ones.

It started out with hydroplane boats, (I will probably build one of those when I get home)
Then I sort of shifted into timber framing for a couple of days, and then suddenly I was considering doing a backsaw project.

After sketching and thinking about backsaws for a bit of time, the most natural course for my imagination was to work on how to make a saw tooth stamping machine.
The saw tooth stamping machine was strangely stopped by the logical part of my brain (a very small part) after convincing myself that I could most likely make a couple of saws before even finishing the machine, if it had to work all right.
On a side note, one of the ideas was to use the lathe, and have the blade revolving in a clamp-type structure. Then I could use the screw cutting pitch to make the teeth.

I have a couple of backsaws at home, and I doubt that I will ever wear them out, so while it is still fun to build one, I wouldn't know what to do with it. Except for putting it in the Sunday tool drawers together with the other tools that are so nice that I can't really get my self to use them on a daily basis.
(LN planes, my infill smoother, the dovetail saw from Two Lawyers Toolworks etc.)

I started looking at older entries on my blog, and somehow I ended up looking at the infill smoother I made last year. I haven't used it a single time! It took a long time to build, and there wasn't much wood involved. But somehow I managed to convince myself that it was actually a nice cosy manageable project to do again. But who needs two infill smothers?
I suppose that I could make a block plane sized infill, but I didn't really see the need for that.

Making an infill would also require me getting some brass and some decent wood for the project, but I could bring that with me for the next time out here. So those obstacles couldn't stop my brain from keeping on with that imaginary project.
So I started loosely sketching an infill chamfer plane. After some time I decided that it would probably never see any use due to my two Japanese chamfer planes that work brilliantly. So it would be a waste of time to build one.
But if I on the other hand made an infill moulding plane, then I would have something that would look fine, and maybe occasionally see a little use.

More sketching, and suddenly I had this small prospective infill that might be possible to build.
The only example I could find online of a similar plane was a guy in Finland who has made an infill with exchangeable irons. Kind of an infill combination plane. I on the other hand want mine to just be a small square ovolo shape.

I can't really think of a good explanation to why I should build an infill ovolo plane other than it would make a pretty little plane, and it would be fun to see if it was possible. I have tried to weigh the pros and cons regarding if it should be a sprung type plane or an unsprung type. So far it seems as though the sprung type will be a bit easier to make as an infill type. But that could easily just be my desktop dreams that fools me.

Another option is to stop inventing new strange projects, and just wait for the trip home, and then next time start a nice little box like project. That is definitely the most sensible thing to do based on my vast experience in this type of situations..

Design phase of infill ovolo moulding plane.

Tuesday, July 3, 2018

Daughter in the workshop

I realized after reading a comment on my last post, that I forgot to blog about when Laura was with me in the shop in December 2017. We helped each other make leather belts for two of her friends as Christmas presents.

One belt was made out of the super bright candy apple red artificial looking leather, because Laura knew that the one friend had a matching something (bag, shoes, coat etc). I can't remember what it was. I never took any pictures of the belt because I really don't think that the leather is pretty. But the friend was happy with the gift, so it was a success.

The other belt was a bit more interesting in my point of view.

The girl who was going to receive it is very active in horse riding. I think she has been accepted to the "Team Denmark" which means that she is downright good.
I have often thought that it could be interesting to make a belt that would look like a saddle girth. It would be a way of showing that you like horses, but in a subtle way, so only other people who know horse stuff would be able to recognize the design.

A saddle girth usually has got two or three buckles rather than one very wide buckle.
Kind of like a support belt for weight lifting.

Laura and I settled on a 2" wide belt, because that could still work as a regular belt in the loops of a set of pants. both ends were slit and buckles were mounted and holes were cut.

Laura helped in beveling the edges of the leather and in polishing the final belt with some leather grease.
She was afraid that she would miss the spot when peening the rivets, so I did that part.
Finally she burned MMXVII on the back of the belt.

One day Laura told me, that her friend had been asked by a relative, if she was wearing a saddle girth? So apparently the design worked as intended.

Using a compass to mark the ends of the belt.

Saddle girth belt.

Last hole is in use and I am holding my breath...

Monday, July 2, 2018

Are woodworkers generally a conservative bunch?

What prompted me to this blog post are the changes that has been done to the Popular Woodworking homepage.

If you like me has visited the page over that last couple of years (I think I have frequently visited it for something like 10 years) You will almost be able to describe for someone how it looked and how the page was built up without even opening the homepage.

The current staff this month of the magazine has decided to launch a new website.
As you can see from the comments most people don't seem very impressed with the change.

I don't mean to move that particular discussion over on this blog, because it is better that people actually raise their voices at popular woodworking, so the crew over there can get a much broader view on what the readership base thinks about it.

Back to the conservative issue:
If I look at ads in woodworking magazines or homepages, they generally tend to be created much the same way, brownish tinted dream scenarios with a bit of dust and plane shavings.
Flannel shirts and jeans and maybe a baseball cap.
I have yet to see a "woodwork of the future ad" with a silver clad astronaut lasercutting a piece of MDF in front of some rainbow coloured garage door in outer space.

I guess that the people who are designing the ads know their demographics well enough to now that it just won't sell anything.

I personally feel that woodworking for me is like a "safe haven" away from where I have to think about that the world is moving forward, and that I have to reluctantly follow along. And I guess that a lot of others feel similarly one way or another.
When Megan Fitzpatrick campaigned to get more women into woodworking, the general response seemed to be that:" We are here for the woodworking, leave out the politics."
Very few commented directly on if it was a good or a bad idea.

Still the website remained like it had always been. It was kind of like your old fashioned hardware shop (the one that doesn't exist anymore except in your dreams and in the movies). With a knowledgeable and friendly clerk, only quality products on the shelves. Suddenly this store carried a weird new product (female woodworkers).
Megan left and the female woodworkers were sort of not refilled into the shelves.

But now this fantasy hardware store has suddenly moved and at the same time turned into an orange coloured newly designed shop, probably with a "latte machine" somewhere on the show floor.
Gone is the familiar smell of the old dusty shelves and the ringing of the bell whenever the door is swung open. The floors are no longer the same and there is a new face behind the counter.

I am still considering whether or not to find "another hardware store", or try to give the newly rebuilt one a chance.

Friday, June 29, 2018

Staircase for the porch.

As some of you might remember, I built  porch a couple of years ago.
Mette wanted it to have a wide set of stairs gently sloping into the garden. The kind of stairs that you could sit on and have a cup of tea.
I milled some wood and told her that the wood needed to dry a bit before I would make such a complicated project as a staircase out of it.

The following year she asked me what the progress was on the staircase, and I could truthfully tell her that the wood was still drying inside the barn. And that the thickest pieces were 3", so as a rule of thumb, they should dry for at least two more years.

Last year she didn't ask about the staircase, but casually mentioned that she was looking forward to getting one someday.

This home period she told me after a day or two that: the weather had been so nice, that now was the time for getting the staircase project started, and besides according to her calculations the wood had been drying the prescribed 3 years! So I couldn't use that as an excuse anymore!

I was pretty much speechless (which happens very seldom to me). I guess that is the "problem" with having a wife that is smarter than you  :-)

In a situation like that there is just one thing to do: Start building the project.

The wood for the stringers was jointed and planed, and the wood for the steps themselves was merely planed on one side.
The old temporary set of stairs had actually worked pretty well in terms of rise/run of the individual steps, so I stayed pretty close to that. I ended up using something like a 6"11/16 rise over a run of 11"5/8 (16.9 cm rise and 29.5 cm run)

Originally I had envisioned making a complicated project with Japanese joints etc. But I forgot how I had actually planned to execute that - so instead I tried to make it a simple but well functioning project instead.
To do that I cut some triangular blocks out and screwed them onto the stringers. That way I kept the full strength and could hope that there would be very little sagging once complete.
The triangles were aligned by help of a piece of string of which the outermost layers were "mysteriously" chewed into short sections. I can't say for sure who did it, but there were some impressive bite marks that "might"? correspond to the set of teeth in Bertha's mouth. That could also explain why the roll of string was suddenly found beneath the apple tree and no longer on the porch itself.

With the triangles in place it was all downhill from there, mounting the steps and later wrapping it all up in some thinner boards. I made a hatch on the corner, so that it will be possible to get below the porch at some point, if someone drops their keys etc. and they will fall through the spaces in the decking.

The final part of the project was to treat it all with some wood preservative and give it a coat of wood protection. (It is what the rest of the porch has been treated with). It will all go grey after a year or so in the sun anyway.

The best thing about the project is that it is now complete, and I have gotten rid of the stack of lumber sitting next to the mulesaw for three years.
The staircase is rock solid, and I asked Mette if she would be OK with me testing the strength by driving a Volvo Valp up the stairs and onto the porch? She said no.. Because now it looked nice and she didn't want the surface to be covered in tire tracks. I am still convinced that it would stand up to it and it would make a cool little video.

The stringers rest on a small tile (approx 5.5" x 5.5") 

Project completed (and no tire tracks)

Thursday, June 28, 2018

Smith & Wesson 629 presentation case 9, glamour shot

While I was home this time, I received a picture of the Smith & Wesson revolver in its new presentation case.

I am happy to see that it did indeed fit because I only had some rough measurements to work out from.

I had imagined that the small compartment could have been used for a "quick loader" (or what the name is), but I don't know if my friend has got one of those, so for now he has stored some more ammunition in there.

I am kind of tempted to make another presentation case, because it was an interesting project. But I might try to order some baize next time to use for the lining instead of hobby felt.

Smith & Wesson 629 in presentation case.

Sunday, May 27, 2018

A new door for the quick closing valves cabinet 2, door and varnishing.

My less than ideal resawing meant that there was a lot of material that needed to be removed by a plane before the four pieces of wood were flat and reasonably identical.

First a rabbet was planed for receiving the glass (which is not real glass by the way), and next a small beading was planed on the front side.

The door frame was assembled with short tenons (1.25" long), and the beading was made continuous by mitering the corners of the beading /rabbet portion of the parts.

I removed the glass form the old door and adjusted its size so it would fit the new door.
The glass was mounted by means of some Sikaflex and 12 small screws that were driven in at an angle, so the head would press the glass down into the rabbet. Not exactly high end furniture style, but OK for this application.
A bit of the Siaflex oozed out, but given that the glass is plastic, I don't want to risk destroying it by being too eager with a chisel when scraping it off.

The two door latches were then mounted by chiseling out a recess, so I could attach the nut from the backside. They are not designed to be used on stuff much thicker than 1/4", so I had to remove some material from the front and the back.

Finally the door was mounted using the reclaimed hinges, and the door latches were adjusted so they could keep the door closed.

I have applied one coat of varnish to the door and the face frame, and as soon as it has dried, I plan to give it another coat, I think that will be sufficient, though the common rule of thumb according to boat varnishing in Denmark states that you should apply 7 layers of varnish with a light sanding in between. This is probably a rule of thumb that has been invented by the manufacturers of varnish!

New door, with first coat of varnish.

New door prior to varnishing.

Short tenons 

Beading detail (and ugly mark from the clamp)

Face frame mounted.

Latch for the door.